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Writer's pictureJan

Au revoir la France! Hola España!

Even during the planning, it was clear: up to the Pyrenees is child’s play, now comes the real challenge. Well, there were a few tough stages already, but 50% of the elevation gain lies in the last third of the tour, and above all, the gradient percentages here are on a whole different level. Off to the mountains!


Biarritz - Urnieta (58 km)



The last kilometers in France were nicely hilly. Franz and I decided last night to split the route until Burgos. From there, he will continue to Santiago de Compostela, and I will head south towards Spain.


The border to Spain was quite the disappointment. There was no sign and no flag to take a picture with. So, you’ll have to believe me when I say that I’m now in Iberia.



Shortly after crossing the border, Franz needed a longer break and asked me to go on ahead. He said he would catch up with me later. Unfortunately, he had bad legs that day, and I had to tackle the first climbs on my own. I didn’t overdo it and decided not to attempt the last big climb.


Urnieta - Arechavaleta (75 km)



The next stage led me through some lovely towns like Tolosa or Beasain. There seems to be a strong passion for road cycling here. Much like in Belgium, there were hundreds of cyclists on the roads—alone, in pairs, or in larger groups. Most of them were very friendly, with thumbs up or a motivating “Vamos” as they overtook me.


Onwards to the next pass. Although it was "only" 600 meters high, it was still quite a long and tiring climb, followed by a fast descent back to roughly the same elevation as before.



The accommodation options in the Basque Country are mainly limited to hotels and guesthouses. Campsites and Airbnbs are nowhere to be found. So, I took the opportunity to stay at a small guesthouse before tackling the next big mountain.


Arechavaleta - Pancorbo (85 km)


The day began with the toughest climb yet, but also with a surprisingly beautiful small mountain village halfway up. The owner of the local bar not only played great jazz music late in the morning but also had good tips for the route ahead.



Once at the top, I continued, interrupted by a few light rain showers, through the Basque capital, Vitoria-Gasteiz. Just before reaching my destination in Pancorbo, I had to wait out a severe thunderstorm under a canopy.


Pancorbo - Burgos (70 km)


I had already booked an Airbnb for my rest day in Burgos. I quickly fetched my bike from the hotel cellar and saddled up. In front of the hotel, I met Pius, and we had a relaxed conversation for half an hour. He had been traveling by motorcycle in France and Spain for four weeks and was now on his way to Santander to catch the ferry back to England. One of the many pleasant encounters on this journey.



Within 5 kilometers, the landscape changes as abruptly as I have ever experienced. In and around the town of Pancorbo, you are still in a rocky mountain region, but as soon as you leave the town, you enter the Spanish Meseta, which, in terms of its profile, is perhaps best compared to the Tuscan region around Siena.



My legs were already looking forward to the rest day, and so the last climb before Burgos was truly exhausting. Although I’ve mostly been following the Camino de Santiago so far, I’ve now reached the most famous section, the Camino Frances. I will continue on this path for about 50 kilometers after my rest day, before turning south.




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